There’s ample free time to relax or explore. Away from the cities’ magnetic waterfronts, I stumble across attractive and trendy neighbourhoods – ones that elude most tourists’ radars whatever the month. In Lisbon, I linger in Principe Real, a district of handsome neoclassical mansions, leafy parks and cosmopolitan bars and eateries.
In Porto, I find a craft ale scene bubbling with interesting brews (some matured in port wine barrels) in the lanes of Cedofeita, an arty enclave north of the historic centre. The Portuguese maintain a vibrant alfresco scene year-round, yet even on…